![]() Posted in 3d Printer hacks Tagged 3d printing, exotic filament, high temperature print, peek Post navigationĭoing my best to parse patent-ese, I can see the patent in question does describe using some form of secondary radiant heater as a “surface heater” for the purpose of keeping the “workpiece” warmer to allow for a better surface quality/adhesion. Not to mention, there is no shortage of high-end commercial offerings. We’ve seen other high-temperature printers, of course. It isn’t clear to us that it isn’t just control of AC power and a heater, but there isn’t much information about what you have to do differently to work in PEEK or other exotic materials. It appears you can buy the boards, but we’d like more information on what makes them different. We were looking for more build details, and we hope they are forthcoming. Looks like it would keep your shop pretty toasty on a cold morning. The halogen heater wraps around a conventional hot end. You do need precise control of the halogen light. ![]() Contrary to common wisdom, suggests using an open frame for the printer. Compare this to PLA, which melts between 150 ☌ and 180 ☌ and has a glass transition temperature of only 60 ☌. PEEK has a glass transition temperature of about 143 ☌ and melts at 343 ☌. Logically, if PEEK is used near the hot end of regular printers, it must need a higher temperature to print. Using a special controller and a halogen lamp, you can modify your own printer to use this exotic material often found in printer hot ends. You can get the details over on Hackaday.io, and there are a few YouTube videos below. has a different idea: printing with PEEK. Normally, when you think of PEEK in 3D printing, you think of a part made of PEEK, suitable for lower-temperature plastics.
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